Specialty coffee in Civitavecchia

The town's name is the record of a single decision: after the Saracen raids the inhabitants abandoned the port, moved up into the Tolfa hills and came back to the sea only sixty years later, to a settlement they simply called the old one. They were talked into it, so the story goes, by one old sailor, Leandro, and a square in the center still carries his name. The irony is that this old town is no longer there: during the war seventy-six air raids wiped out the cathedral, the medieval quarter and ninety-five percent of the buildings. A town that had already moved away from here once rebuilt itself this time on the same spot, and its name still means old town.