Specialty coffee in Lisbon: 58 checked cafés

In Portugal you do not brew coffee, you go out for it - before the pandemic, four fifths of the coffee drunk here was drunk out of the house, on the premises. At that rhythm the price of a bica is a public matter: in three years it jumped by nearly a quarter, the average reached ninety-something cents, and an espresso for a round euro is getting rarer. Just outside Lisbon there is a cafe where a bica has cost 45 cents ever since the escudo gave way to the euro; the woman who owns it has not touched the price, not through the crisis and not through the pandemic. So ten cents on the price makes the business news, because anyone who goes out for coffee twice a day counts what it costs the way they count the price of a litre of petrol.